If you are willing to attempt the expensive end of the snow sports market, then helicopter access from Russia is a great, reasonably priced option. I travelled independently to the village of Dombai, nestled in the southern Caucasus, close to the Georgian boarder, with my Russian friend and photographer Denis.
For this trip we planned to take on the mountains of the Caucasus Range in an enormous ex-military Russian army helicopter, the 30 person Mi8.
We paid cash for a 3 day heliboarding package at the very helpful and organised adventure tour specialists ‘AlpIndustria’ (www.helikaukas.com) located at their large and well stocked Moscow outdoor equipment shop the day before we flew to Dombai.
Russia
Heading to Russia with an open mind, easy going persona and a sense of humour will help you to fully appreciate all that the experience has to offer. I lived there for a year back in the 90’s and had knowledge of the place, its unique systems and friendly people. Things can, and do go wrong and the unexpected is never far away but that’s part of the appeal.
Moscow
The gateway city to Eastern Russia is Moscow. It is a sprawling metropolis with over 12 million inhabitants. It has something to offer for everyone and is worth at least a couple of days on either side of the trip to the south.
Moscow has grand architecture, amazing metro stations, huge boulevards, numerous theatres and great nightlife. There are many famous and interesting landmarks that should not be missed including the imposing Red Square, the fairy tail onion domes of St Basils Cathedral, Lenin’s tomb, the many churches and museums of the Kremlin.
Accommodation can be expensive, so it is recommended to search out hotels located away from the central tourist areas. Taxis are reasonable and the metro system is an extremely good value that covers most of the city. The English newspaper, The Moscow Times, gives up to date reviews and listings of bars and restaurants.
The journey to Mineralnie Vody (Mineral Water)
It’s a comfortable two and half hour flight south from Moscow on Aeroflots majestically designed Tuplev 154M aeroplane to Mineralnie Vody’s basic airport.
Overland from Mineralnie Vody to Dombai
Taxis can be booked before you exit the arrivals hall for pre-arranged fares. They are slightly more expensive than outside but its well worth it. The journey to Dombai is 4 to 5 hours and takes in some eye opening vistas, both of the countryside, towns and villages and their inhabitants.
Once in the taxi you have to keep your fingers firmly crossed (as any suppositious Russian would) that the Malitia (police) don’t stop you at the many check points along the way. It’s a sensitive area with it being close to the Chechnya area and the country of Georgia.
Our old taxi van was randomly selected before we had even left the airport arrivals car park but we had all the correct documents. Be prepared to make a rouble donation for having the ‘wrong’ papers. This being the quickest and most effective way to ease a situation and stop you from going to prison! At strategic points, further checks of either the vehicle/driver documents or personnel and their belongings were made.
Dombai
We eventually arrived into Dombai in daylight and were greeted by the spectacular snow covered mountains and historic charm of the village. Old Soviet era style hotels and apartment blocks jostled for position with their brasher, newer neighbours. Market traders, tanned and wrinkled, poured onto the small streets, displaying their colourful local wares.
The mountain village resort is located directly below the main Caucasus Ridge at a height of 1500 metres, with surrounding jagged peaks reaching up to 4000 metres. A new state of the art gondola could be seen rising to the Dombai mountain resort above. The older, cheaper, large red cable car lift was a working backdrop.
The driver dropped us off at our rustic apartment block that we had pre-booked in Moscow. The apartment’s look was straight from a 1970’s Russia spy film. The furniture was all dark wood, and none of the wall or floor coverings matched. An old portable TV sat on the centre piece dresser unit that separated the lounge (complete with pull out bed) from the double bed. The apartment had bags of character, good heating, hot and cold running water, countless small kiosks and restaurants in the immediate vicinity and a great view of the resort above.
Dombai Resort
During the first few days we utilised the various ageing lifts of the resort. Although the high specification, 6-seater gondola had been recently commissioned many locals continued to use the cheaper, less frequent Soviet one. We joined them and rode up to the lower resort base area with the more cost conscious Russian tourists. From here it’s a ‘pay as you go system’ on the colourful, but rickety, constant speed lifts. Snowboards and skis are carried on your lap on the chair lift up to the main resort area at 2600 metres.
The main resort area is randomly laid out and consists of restaurants, market stalls, cafes and animals! Get your photo taken on a real Bactrian camel, beside a tethered bear or try on an old local warriors’ costume of fur skin robes. We chose to take the last lift to the top for the fresh powder that had fallen the previous night. We rode 35-40 cm of untracked powder with large grins. We had a great few days, mainly using only the top two lifts to access the resort terrain. The resort runs are not very steep, but with few turns, a quiet mountain, good base depth and lots of fresh powder to access, they are enjoyable and a perfect way to get your legs warmed up for the helicopter. At times rocks could be an issue but care was taken and the speed reduced for any sketchy areas. A friendly ‘engraver’ operator, (piste bashers to the Europeans or snow cats to our friends across the pond) even let us ride back up the mountain in the rear of his vehicle whilst we clung on tight to the cab. Other entrepreneurial engravers had moved it one step further and had the rear area converted with wooden battens and metal handrails to accept paying customers on some easy to access powder located close by.
As the heliboarding trip came closer the excitement grew. If we were having this much fun in the resort then what was is going to be like in the backcountry! We had all the crucial elements that make up a perfect trip. Two days before we were due to fly one of those elements disappeared, the most important, the helicopter. The official reason was that the helicopter had to go for essential maintenance. Of the many conspiracy theories discussed, some of war or KGB intervention, the more probable was of the government implementing a no-fly zone. Whatever the reasons, maintenance or otherwise, the decision was final we were not going into the air. We had travelled a long way to go heliboarding and were extremely disappointed, but both agreed that this sort of thing goes with the territory of riding in the former USSR. You have to be able to take it on the chin and think positive. The ski and snowboard guides from AlpIndustria travel agency said that it was quite unheard of for the helicopter to be grounded and were very apologetic. They offered us the opportunity to access the backcountry area that surrounded the resort as part of their guides program.
The Backcountry Experience
We met the guides at 10am each morning at a café located at the main resort area of 2600 metres. Our experienced guides, Sergey Fursov, Aleksey Orlov and Andrey Zheleznov were careful and considered all risks. Everyone was provided with avalanche transceivers and all were checked prior to leaving the café. Once we had exited the top lift we hiked into the surrounding backcountry and checked out the lines available. The conditions were amazing, with the mix of snow falling overnight, and blue sky in the morning. The backcountry area we rode the most had a very steep top section and eased out over the length of the run, with random large rocks dotted about for the more adventurous. Each rider went down alone so every run was on an empty mountain. No one could steal the powder and there was plenty of space to choose your own clean lines. Tight turns or laid back cruising, carving swallow tails or straight fast lines. The conditions were a dream. Although my Russian is fairly rudimentary I could tell all the guests were having a ball too. A few had a basic knowledge of the English language and would try to converse with me. I was treated very well and became quite a minor celebrity with my Russian language skills, even being given the VIP treatment of riding second, after the guide. I followed his leading tracks over large rocks into soft, untouched snow. The guides, Sergey and Andrey were excellent skiers, and Aleksey had been crowned the 2005 Russian Extreme Snowboard Champion. It was a real pleasure riding with good skiers and boarders who pushed you all the way.
As the gradient eased off into the various long run outs down to the road, the environment was just as interesting and impressive. Depending on the route it was either large snow laden gullies filled with very deep powder and small, well spaced trees or the more difficult sections negotiating a number of natural hazards. There were more than a few scary moments riding along and occasionally in frozen rivers, through unbelievable tight trees and beside dangerous cliff drops. Many guests who had easily rode the steeps and deep found the lower section very difficult, where a more technical approach was required. On one run out we were greeted by a traditionally dressed local, farmer complete with a golden set of teeth and his old, three legged dog. He was excited to meet us and we were invited to his nearby high alpine farm to taste the sour yoghurt type drink he produced. We then accessed the infamous Klukhor Pass, a road used to link Russia with Georgia during the second world war. The constant gradient and ample snow cover allowed us to ride along it. Steep cliffs opening up to a snow covered meadow on one side and gushing streams to the other. We rode down watching out for the road signs indicating tight bends or speed limits, and popping jumps over any exposed mud sections. It was a fun end to another great day, and one of the many highlights of the trip. Unique and steeped in history, I doubt that the resorts of Western Europe or North America could provide such simple pleasures.
Each day the groups varied from 5 to 20 guests, but even with the full complement there was still plenty of terrain and powder to play in so no one left disappointed.
It was only possible to do one, very testing run a day but it was enough. I can honestly say that the cancellation of the helicopter was soon forgotten as we rode the empty and beautiful backcountry. Don’t get me wrong, the amount of vertical a helicopter can cover in a day is immense but this was different and very peaceful. With fresh powder every day, sunshine, blue sky and temperature just above freezing, it was difficult not to enjoy it. The impressive scenery made good photo opportunities very easy.
All runs ended on the main road back to Dombai. Cheap taxis or minivans arrived promptly to take us the 7km back to the village. Approximately 1600 metres of vertical, and 5-8 km of distance had been completed.
Evenings out, friendships and the future
There are bars and a nightclub in Dombai village but evenings were generally a quiet affair based in the apartment, or at the many restaurants and cafes. The food was good quality and the beer flowed. We made a lot of Russian friends on the backcountry trips and would meet to review our photographs on the laptop over dinner, and re-live the day’s events.
We didn’t meet any one from a nation who’s first language was English at all and it wasn’t until the last day of the trip that we met a crazy bunch of Norwegian snowboarders in their early twenties who were travelling totally independent. A very funny, interesting and pioneering crew who we only managed to share a beer with for one night.
There wasn’t much to spend your money on apart from the markets stalls and the food kiosks. I bought a selection of locally produced, and branded woollen beanies for gifts, a bargain at only R100 (£2/$4) and bottles of the excellent Dagestan Cognac.
There are no ski or snowboarding shops in Dombai. A few places have rental equipment but it is generally old and there is limited availability. The friendly husband and wife team located next to the top lift queue (2600 metres) sometimes have used equipment for sale and do all sorts of repairs, specialising in base damage from rocks! They are very reasonable and it is a good idea to get your equipment serviced before leaving.
Russia and Dombai in general, are a daunting prospect indeed, but take the time and try their lines. You won’t be disappointed. It’s different and challenging but the rewards are plentiful. Be prepared to meet lots of interesting individuals and experience bizarre situations. Take in the wonderful panoramas and ride the fresh powder that the area has to offer. We are going back to get the lines that the helicopter can access and have every faith that this time we will get airborne!
Top tips
- Package tours are highly recommended for first time visitors to Russia (try market leaders for the Dombai area, AlpIndustria www.helikaukas.com). Various packages can be tailored to suit your wallet and timescale, or take the plunge and come with us. See our website www.heliboarding.narod.ru for more information.
- Russian visitor visas and registration support letters/documentations are essential (Check current legislation regarding visas as it can, and does change due to the delicate political situation in the area). (www.realrussia.co.uk come highly recommended. Telephone +44 (0) 207 100 7370)
- Get an insurance policy that covers you for heliboarding and Russia (try www.worldwideinsure.com first for a competitive quote).
Words by Chris Horner, Middlesbrough, England, UK
Photos by Denis Romanov
This story was originally published in The Untracked Guide To Backcountry Skiing & Snowboarding and is reprinted with permission.
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